Guide To Tuning The 3SGE

Sorry, could only find Part 1

http://www.mediafire.com/?zekj5i25mk2

Haha, found it

http://www.celicatech.com/koreanjoey/Modifying%2520the%25203SG%2520non-turbo%2520engine.pdf

If your looking to tune your 3S, this is a great read!!!!

Just goes to show that you can get power out of N/A 3SGE's

There's a discussion on the toyota owners club in the UK with some great info.
Heres a great piece here:

Quote :

Most people know that the best initial steps to get extra ponies out their 3SGE is to sort out the intake, exhaust and decat.. finding information on the next steps are a little more difficult as hardly anyone goes much past this point.. with this in mind i've been scratching round for information from a lot of boards/manuals and thought i'd share what i've found out – this is not to say I’m an authority on this subject – I’m not – I just thought it may be beneficial to others and may even save you some time searching...

MANIFOLD / HEADER:

The next logical upgrade to the 3SGE in my mind - is to change the manifold. The revision of your car will dictate what manifold will be applicable for you. For reference at this point it might be worth mentioning that the stock rev1/2 manifolds are 4-2-1 and the stock rev 3+ manifolds are 4-1. The main differences between a 4-2-1 manifold and the 4-1 manifold is that the 4-2-1 design is ideally set up to maximise torque (low down grunt) where the 4-1 design helps aid flow higher up i.e. increasing top end speed and Bhp (to an extent).

I have only found 2 main companies who make manifold for the 3SGE:

Revision 1 and 2 cars:
Fujitsubo Super Ex header – this used to be available in 2 flavours the BASIC version and the final polished version. The difference between the 2 is that the BASIC is cheaper because it does not go through the final polishing stage. The design is exactly the same. The design is the same as stock i.e. 4-2-1 but it is 4kg lighter and should give some good gains due to improved flow. Fujitsubo measured this on a stock car and got circa 6bhp. Expect to pay around £570 to your door (imported from Japan – see www.mtte.com or www.takakaira.co.jp )

Revision 3+ cars:
Tanabe Medalion – this is a 4-1 design. Very little information is available about this manifold. The cost circa £550 brand new and can be bought from www.mtte.com or www.takakaira.co.jp They occasionally come up second hand. If you are buying a second hand one, please ensure they provide you with the B-pipe as well as this is extremely expensive to buy on its own or to get one custom made. They occasionally turn up on imported cars. You can expect similar gains and benefits as the Fujitsubo item above.

There are other manufacturers i.e. OBX and Team XS – but these both require varying amounts of custom work to make them fit. Pheonix Power also make a manifold for rev3+ cars but this is eye wateringly expensive!

CAMS / VERNIER PULLEYS:

Cams would be the next thing you’d want to concentrate on in my opinion. I’ve searched flowing/porting the 3SGE head and have found that Toyota made the head on the 3SGE flow extremely well and in some cases – performance has actually suffered after having head work carried out.

Stock cams:

Revision 1/2 3SGE:
In: 244deg, 8.5mm lift (timing 7/57)
Ex: 244deg, 8.5mm lift (timing 57/7)

Revision 3+ 3SGE:
In: 252deg, 9.8mm lift (timing 7/65)
Ex: 240deg, 8.2mm lift (timing 53/7)

As you can see, for rev3+ cars – Toyota switched to a staggered set up. If you have a revision 1 or 2 car then you would actually benefit from installing rev3 stock items! A cheap upgrade route to go if money is at a premium!

If you want to go for a big name company then plenty of companies cater for this as the 3SGE cams can be used in a 3SGTE and vice versa. The stock 3SGE cams are also more aggressively profiled than the 3SGTE items – this is why some owners in the US have swapped out their stock cams for stock 3SGE cams.

An example of aftermarket cams are:

Piper Cams (fast road):
In: 260deg, 9.37mm lift
Ex: 260deg, 9.32mm lift

With this setup you should expect circa 10bhp and they cost £450. If you have a revision 1or 2 car then you will need to have a shim under bucked conversion carried out if you intend to fit high lift cams as these engines have a habit of spitting out shims at high revs. The revision 3+ cars came with shim under bucket as standard.

Vernier pulley’s are also worth considering at this point as not only will they be lighter than stock – they will also allow fine tuning of timing to ensure you are getting the most from your new set up.

AIR / FUEL MANAGEMENT:

At this stage it really would be worthwhile sorting the air, fuel and ignition timing of your car. This ultimately means upgrading your cars ECU (either piggyback or standalone) to enable you to enjoy the full potential/state of tune of your car. Again this is another area where there are several big name companies that can provide a solution. The one I would probably recommend and the one I will go for if/when I get this far will be a Dastek Unichip. Primarily because they are fairly local and the Unichip is mapped for air, fuel and ignition. Some aftermarket piggyback ECU’s only cater for air and fuel mapping.

Piggyback ECU options are:

Dastek Unichip
Apexi SAFC / NEO etc
Greddy Emanage and Emanage Ultimate

Prices vary and these will also require mapping on a rolling road.

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=56160